Wildflower–meadows are permanent and varying Eco-systems consisting of
approximately 50 individual species creating a plant family with a different
appearance throughout the year due to changes in temperature, soil, light,
moisture and invasion by other seeds. Typical for wildflower-meadow mixtures are
combinations of grasses, clovers, herbs and flowers giving it its characteristic
look. Due to the above-mentioned types of influences some species might be
suppressed or disappear for a certain time or totally, others may dominate.
This might be influenced even more by mankind, but seldom in a positive way.
One should not forget that a wildflower meadow is neither a lawn nor an
agricultural surface to be used intensively. Nature is creating itself, so very
little care is recommended.
Preparation of soil:
Dig or turn the desired area of soil. In case of heavy or rich soils it is
recommended to add sand (medium to larger calibration). Do not fertilize! Rake
the surface so that it is free from weeds and allow to settle. Stones and wood
(stems or bushes) may remain on the surface, giving protection to insects and
smaller or sensitive plants. Leave the seed bed for approximately 2-3 weeks so
that the soil may settle and the weed seeds germinate. The surface should now be
raked over several times to a depth of about 2-3cm; any weed growth should be
removed. Flatten all uneven patches of the soil.
Sowing:
When about to sow, manually mix once again the contents to get a homogenous
seed mixture. Repeat the procedure as often as possible while sowing. (The seed
mixture consists of over 50 species of seeds with different weight, size, form
and shape). The mixture may now be sown at approximately 10g/m². The sowing can
be done in two operations with half of the recommended seeding rate to allow a
better distribution of the various seeds. Do not seed too densely.
If in doubt use sand as a sowing aid. For example, take about one tenth part
of the mixture and mix it with about 5 or 10kg of sand in a bucket. (Mix well
and spread around, standing in the middle of an area of about 3.5m diameter). Do
not forget to mix through the bucket after all three sowing acts, because of the
difference of weight between seeds and sand. The sand will also help you to get
a visual control of the surface sown already. Avoid irrigation as it only gives
advantage to those plants with high water-need, which may afterwards suppress
the slower developing species. Save your fertilizer for your lawn or roses and
similar plants.
Sowing – period:
Two sowing periods are favourable. Early spring or late autumn. Both periods
have advantages and disadvantages.
Spring seeding:
The Sowing can be done in March or April, when soil temperatures have
achieved more than 11°C; more or less in the same period when your lawn is mown
for the first time after winter. Do not forget the soil preparation! The
advantage of spring seeding is the flowering period in the same year. The
disadvantage is that the pressure of the weeds in spring is high and might
influence the development of the more sensitive species.
Autumn seeding:
The sowing can be done from September to November even at low temperatures.
There is not as much weed pressure anymore and the biannual species are
flowering mostly in the following year because of vernalisation in the winter
months. It is already too cold for germination concerning the annual species, so
they will use early spring moisture to develop quickly to get in an early
flowering period. Most professionals are using the autumn-sowing period, because
of the above mentioned arguments but also because the gardening season is
over.
Maintenance:
The maintenance of a wildflower-meadow is simple; do not do much, be lazy!
Fertilising and irrigation are prohibited. One or two cuts during the year are
recommended and sufficient. For spring-sowing take the first cut in October or
November (autumn cut) after the flowering period. If cuttings are not removed,
the plants underneath will suffer or even disappear. The second cut (spring cut)
can be taken in early spring depending on the development of the surface. If the
meadow is forming a dense surface with a lot of green-material, one cut should
be taken down to a height of about 10cm, not lower. It allows the slower growing
species more light and space to develop without being suppressed by the
quick-starters. Also now, remove the cuttings! If some unpleasant species
appear, remove them manually after flowering or when identification of the
species is clear and the plant is definitely not welcome. Never use chemicals
against weeds in a wildflower meadow.
Development:
As already described above, a wildflower-meadow is a permanently varying
structure of plants of different families, struggling and competing with each
other but also needing and supporting one another. The annual species such as
corn poppy, bachelors button, bluebell, birds eye, baby breath, black eyed
Susan, marigold, candy tuft, catchfly, cornflower, daisy African flake, scarlet
fax, blue larkspur, love in a mist, California poppy, snapdragon, Siberian
wallflower, just to name but a few, will flower in the first summer and autumn,
some of them even in the second year, than in combination with the biennials and
perennials together, such as yarrow, ribgrass, daisy, bellflowers, knapweed,
foxglove, bedstraw, St.John’s wort, field scabious, hawkbit, blue flax, lupin,
lavender, mallow, chamomile, forget-me-not, selfheal, etc…and of course the
grasses and trefoils. After the fourth year the wildflower meadow reaches its
final appearance. This means that in the following years no significant changes
within the range of species will be expected.
The established species will then dominate and leave only few opportunities
for others to establish if conditions stay stable. It might be helpful to
over-seed every two years with a pure wildflower mix consisting of annuals,
biennials and perennials such as the GREENFIELD WILDFLOWER TIN. It refreshes the
meadow every year with a new generation of plants showing their typical
magnificent colours.